Clamshell Lighting Setup

What clamshell lighting is

Clamshell lighting is a portrait technique in which one light, the key, sits above and in front of the subject, and a second light or a reflector sits below and in front, angled upward. Seen from the side, the two form a shape like an open clam. The photographer shoots through the gap between them.

It is widely used for beauty, fashion and headshot work because the light is soft, frontal and even.

Why photographers use it

• The top light shapes the face with soft shadows under the cheekbones and chin.
• The lower light fills those shadows, so the skin looks smooth and even.
• Both lights create catchlights in the eyes, often one above the other.
• It is predictable, so results are easy to repeat.

Because it lowers contrast, it can feel flat if you want a moodier look. For other patterns, see lighting setup diagrams.

Setup with two lights

1. Place the key. Put a large softbox, beauty dish or umbrella above and in front of the subject, angled downward at the face. This is similar to butterfly lighting.
2. Place the fill. Position a second light, or a reflector, below the face and in front, angled upward. Keep it out of the frame.
3. Position the camera. Shoot between the two, usually at about eye level or slightly above.
4. Set the balance. Make the lower light weaker than the top one so that shadows are softened but not erased.
5. Test and adjust. Check the shadows under the nose and chin, and the catchlights.

 side view

   K  (above, angled down)
     \
      \   S  <-- C (camera between the lights)
      /
   F  (below, angled up)

One-light version with a reflector

You do not need two lights. Use a single softbox above and in front, and place a white reflector or foam board on a table or the subject’s lap, angled up toward the chin. A window can serve as the top light with a reflector below (compare portrait photography with one light). The reflector gives gentle fill, and bringing it closer makes the fill stronger. For more on fill sources, see fill lighting in photography.

Settings and ratio

Exposure depends on your lights, so meter or test shoot. A common approach is to make the lower light roughly one to two stops weaker than the key, then adjust by eye. A modest aperture, such as around f/5.6 to f/8, is often used for headshots to keep the eyes and face sharp, but this is a preference rather than a rule. Compare ratios in contrast lighting in photography.

Posing and camera position

• Ask the subject to keep their chin slightly forward and lowered, so light reaches the eyes.
• Keep the subject close enough to the lights for soft wrapping light.
• Ask people with glasses to tilt their head slightly to reduce reflections.
• Place a background light or rim light behind if you want separation. See photography lighting types.

Variations

• Moving the key higher or lower changes how long the nose shadow falls.
• Adding a hair or background light adds separation.
• Using a grid on the key gives a more focused look.
• Using a silver reflector below adds more sparkle than white.

Common problems

• Flat result: lower the fill or move the key slightly off-centre.
• Shadows under the eyes: raise the lower light a little or bring it closer.
• Glare on glasses: change the angle of the subject’s head or the lights.
• Shiny skin: use more diffusion and check the amount of powder or makeup.

If you want the basics behind these choices, read lighting basics for photography.