A starting recipe
If you want one set of settings to try tonight, begin here and adjust after checking the first few frames:
- Mode: manual, or aperture priority with Auto ISO and a minimum shutter speed.
- Aperture: wide open or close to it, such as f/1.8 to f/2.8.
- Shutter speed: around 1/60s to 1/125s to avoid hand shake and freeze walking people.
- ISO: Auto ISO, with an upper limit that suits your camera, commonly somewhere around 3200 to 6400.
- Focus: continuous autofocus or zone focusing.
- File format: RAW.
These are starting points, not rules. Your lens, camera and the light in your city decide the final values.
Choose a mode
Manual mode gives full control. You choose aperture and shutter speed, and set Auto ISO to make up the difference. This is steady because the exposure does not shift when you point at a bright sign.
Aperture priority with Auto ISO is simpler. You set the aperture and a minimum shutter speed, and the camera picks ISO. Some cameras let you set the minimum shutter speed directly, which stops the camera dropping to a slow speed that blurs your subject. If your camera does not, you may need to use manual mode.
There is no “night mode” switch on most dedicated cameras. Phones use a night mode that combines several frames. On a camera, you set exposure yourself, as described here. For a general overview, see our complete guide to photography at night.
Aperture
Wide apertures let in the most light, which keeps shutter speed fast and ISO manageable. Many people use f/1.8 to f/2.8. A common question is what f-stop to use for street photography in general, and a mid-range aperture such as f/5.6 or f/8 is a daytime favourite because it keeps more in focus. At night you usually give that up for light. Going a bit smaller than wide open, such as f/2.8 to f/4, can improve sharpness and give you more room for focus errors. Our guide to the f-stop for night photography goes into this in more depth.
Shutter speed
For handheld shots of people walking, 1/60s is a reasonable lower limit and 1/125s is safer. If you hold the camera steady and your subject is still, you can go slower. A rule of thumb is to keep the shutter speed at or above 1/focal length to limit camera shake, but moving subjects usually need faster than that.
You can also choose slower speeds deliberately, such as 1/15s or 1/30s, to blur cars and pedestrians. Brace the camera against a wall or post and expect many failed frames. A tripod is also an option for static scenes and light trails.
ISO and noise
Auto ISO is helpful at night because the light changes from block to block. Set a maximum to stop the camera going higher than you want. Modern sensors handle fairly high ISO, and a little grain often suits night street pictures. A sharp, grainy image is better than a clean one with blur. If you want less noise, brighten the scene with a wider aperture or a better-lit location rather than lowering shutter speed too much.
Focus
Autofocus can struggle in dim light. Options:
- Continuous autofocus can track people, if your camera finds enough contrast. Aim at edges or lit areas.
- Zone focusing: set a fixed aperture and focus distance, such as a few metres, and shoot when your subject enters that zone. A smaller aperture widens the zone.
- Pre-focusing on a light source at the right distance, then recompose.
Back-button focus can help you hold focus on a spot and wait for the moment.
White balance and colour
Mixed light sources, such as warm lamps, cool LEDs and coloured signs, mean no single white balance looks neutral everywhere. Shooting RAW lets you choose later. Many photographers keep a slightly warm look, or leave colours as they come to preserve the feel of the place. Auto white balance can shift from frame to frame, so a fixed setting keeps a series consistent.
Metering and exposure
Bright signs and dark surroundings can confuse the meter. Spot or highlight-weighted metering helps keep lit areas from blowing out. Many photographers underexpose slightly so that lights are not clipped and shadows stay dark, then lift the shadows in editing. Check the histogram, not just the screen. For more on managing bright lamps and shadows, see night photography lighting.
Finding light and subjects
Look for pools of light and wait for people to step into them. Neon signs, shop windows, subway entrances and car headlights are all useful. Wet streets after rain double the light. Silhouettes against bright windows are easy to expose for. Keep respect and local law in mind when photographing strangers, and be aware of your surroundings and gear.
Aspect ratio
The question of 16:9 or 4:3 does not have a technical answer. Most cameras shoot 3:2 or 4:3 natively, and you can crop to 16:9 later. Shoot at the native ratio to keep full resolution and compose with some room to crop.
Lens choice
A 28mm, 35mm or 50mm prime with a wide aperture is a popular street choice because it is compact, bright and inexpensive compared with fast zooms.
Quick checklist
- Set RAW and manual (or aperture priority with a minimum shutter speed).
- Pick a wide aperture and a shutter speed near 1/60s to 1/125s.
- Turn on Auto ISO with a sensible maximum.
- Set focus method.
- Take a test shot, review the histogram, and adjust.
- Wait for the light and the moment.